Tirana, Albania

House Sit Mullet

With the tin can on wheels safely locked away in Montenegro, we headed south into Albania.

We heard so many not exactly encouraging stories about this country, so we were a little apprehensive but decided to keep an open mind. Our first beware was the roads. They ranged from very bad to very good with mostly OK. The driver stories were spot on: wild and wilder – which is partly due to the fact that the donkey is still a mode of transport in some places. Cars started appearing in the 1880s and 1890s but didn’t make an appearance in Albania until 100 years later.

But being aware made us more vigilant and as long as we held a safe speed and kept a safe distance we were pretty much OK. At least until we hit Tirana and then there was no way to keep a safe distance. Think Champs Elysee on the roundabout in peak hour or the daily commute in New Delhi.

We were, needless to say, relieved to get safely onto a motorway and into the countryside near Mullet where we are spending Christmas looking after Sima while her mum and dad head off to have Christmas with family.

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The first trip out was to the supermarket, much the same as any other supermarket in Europe but we did think it a little more expensive. Found the people very friendly and helpful. Found the local bakery and Mosque and an interesting 15th or 16th Century Monument in honour of a bride that was shot on her wedding day during an altercation between families who all wanted to be on the same road. Seems sharing wasn’t an option – a bit like modern-day Tirana.

Tirana

We didn’t know what to expect when we walked out to catch the bus to the city.  We had a rough idea where the bus stop was but it was confirmed by the friendliest Albanian locals.  Even if they don’t speak English, and most do, they still insist on telling you in their local language that, yes, this is the bus stop (boos).  When the bus arrived it was completely full but they still invited us to squeeze in and, that we did, cos we waited for nearly an hour for this one. We weren’t sure where to get off but that was solved easily when everyone else got off in the city and no one was left except us, this must be it, so we jumped off as well.  

We did have a sort of plan but we ended up starting our tour the wrong way up with the new Mosque of Tirana which is still not completed. Did you know that 56% of the population is Muslim, with orthodox Christians at 15% and Catholics at 12%? I thought this was surprising because, during the communist period from 1945-1991, it was illegal to practice a religion. Albania was an atheist state. And did you know that Mother Teresa was (sort of) Albanian? Her parents were and that counts doesn’t it?

Tirana Mosque

After the fall of communism in Albania, in 1991, Albanian Muslims often complained about being discriminated against. While two cathedrals (Catholic and Eastern Orthodox) were built, as of 2016 Muslims in Albania still had no central mosque and had to pray in the streets. In 1992, then-president, Sali Berisha, laid the first stone of a mosque to be constructed near Namazgja square, close to the parliament. 

The building of the mosque is considered necessary because there are only 8 mosques in the city, down from 28 in 1967. During Islamic holidays,  Skanderbeg Square is filled with Muslim worshipers, because the Ottoman-era Ethem Bey mosque, currently Tirana’s principal mosque, has a capacity of only 60 persons. Rain makes Friday sermons impossible. When we passed during our visit mats were laid out in the square for the worshippers.  

Next, we walk through Tirana Castle which is actually and collection of restaurants and shops, only the wall is still standing.  There is a mall on the other side that takes you down to the main drag called Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit.  Here we found the famous Skanderbeg Square, Famous Albanian feudal Lord, who kept the ottomans at bay during the 14th century. 

Next, we headed up towards Mother Teresa Square where we passed the old communist residential area and found gifted relics of the Berlin wall, an old communist bunker, and a concrete structure that was part of an old notorious mine called SPAC which held political prisoners from 1968 to 1991. 

Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit holds so much history for Albanians and is at the top end of the President’s official residence.  When we hit Mother Terisa square we noticed a very imposing modern structure with the signage “Marriot Hotel”.  At first, we thought it to be a hotel complex and shopping centre, wrong, this complex also held a football stadium “Air Albania Stadium”.   We loved the quirky architecture.   

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Petrele Castle

Petrele Castle has a rich history starting with the roman emperor, Justine, the first. There is a second castle close by called Krujë Castle that was built at the same time. When under siege the castles used to talk to each other with fire.

Up until the 14th century the Turks were in control of Albania. It was the Albanian feudal lord Skanderbeg who rose up against them. The rebellious Skanderbeg garrisons of between 2,000-3,000 men successfully withstood three massive sieges from the returning Turks.

Today the castles are an inspiration to the Albanians and get lots of visitors, though not so many in winter, we were surprised after trekking up the stony path, to see Petrele castle is a restaurant and enjoyed a coffee and the amazing views, particularly to the east towards the mountains.

Duress

Duress was founded by the Greeks around the 7th century BC. Then came the Romans and in the Middle Ages, the Bulgarians, Venetians, and Ottomans who ultimately prevailed for more than 400 years from 1501 until 1912. This is when Albania achieved its short-lived independence. Why short-lived? Firstly it was occupied by the Italians during the First World War and by the Germans in the next one. Then from 1946, it was an isolationist and pretty brutal communist nation till 1991 when a greyish democracy was born.

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