Cyprus – a Little History
Our home base on the island of Aphrodite was in Peyia a short twenty minutes from Pafos, the fourth largest city in Cyprus. I have always been a history buff and what a colourful history this Island has. This won’t take long 😂 I promise.
The island’s civilisation goes back to the stone age some five thousand yrs BC. In recent history, the Otterman empire ruled the island from the late 16th century till 1878 when the Ottomans handed it over to the British (as a protectorate) in exchange for military support against Russian aggression in Turk-held Asian colonies.
Although the Cypriots at first accepted the change in government, they believed that the United Kingdom would unite Cyprus with mother Greece. The population at that time was roughly 75% Greek Cypriot and 25% Turk Cypriot.
It remained a protectorate until 1914, but when the Ottomans joined forces with Germany in WW1 things changed. It became a British occupation till 1925 and then a Crown colony. 1960 the British were pressured internationally and locally to enter talks on independence.
The local pressure came from the Cypriot resistance movement called the National Organisation of Cypriot Fighters (EOKA) led by General Georgios Grivas. Their 1956-1959 fight against British rule ended with the establishment of the Republic of Cyprus as a non-partitioned independent state separate from Greece. Life in Cyprus.
But, sadly, that wasn’t the end of it. The initial Greek and Turkish Cypriot joint government didn’t work. The Greek Cypriots held the majority and wanted the Turks out and they tried very hard to achieve that outcome and did it temporarily. As a result, the island was partitioned in 1974 when Turkish forces invaded the island to protect the Turkish Cypriots. END of History Lesson.
Trusted Sitters – Life in Cyprus
As trusted Housesitters we accepted an invitation to look after three furries in Peyia, to the west of Paphos. So it was pack up Australia (the caravan) and store at one of our new favourite campsites close to Volos in the beautiful Pagasetic Gulf, Greece. We had one little problem, no ferries running between Greece and Cyprus as we’d hoped so the bloody car left at the airport. Seems the Greek Government is asking for tenders to have the service recommenced this year (May 2022). The last time the service operated was some 20 years ago.
So we travelled up to Thessaloniki and overnighted close to the international airport for a 4.30 am start to catch our flight. On the way to the airport, we dropped the car off at the airport car park for the duration of our two-plus month home sit (180 euros).
Meet the Furries
Our host Ashley kindly picked us up at the airport (and gave us the use of his car while he was away). On arrival at home base we met the three furries that brought us to Cyprus and set off memories of our house sit in the mountains of Northern Italy. That time we had a whole family: mum, dad, grandma and 5 kittens, who were a delight to look after with their own little personalities, including ‘the hungry one’.
These three were no exception. Buffy, Caesar and Kisser. Ceasar thought dinner was every time a two-leg ventured into the kitchen, and given half a chance he would generously help everyone else to eat their dinner. Kisser – so quiet and gentle and swift to tell you I’ve had enough pats now. Buffy has no meow, was nervous but loved a snuggle.
Pafos – Archaeology Sites
This island is an Archaeologist’s dream holiday destination and is covered with aged sites to discover. In our first walk around Pafos, we unexpectantly walked into the Panagia Theoskepasti a Byzantine church at the centre of Kato Paphos, built in the 11th century. Next was the Agia Kyriaki Chrysopolitissa.
In brief, Agia Kyriaki church and Chrysopolitissa Basilica (the columns beside the church) are a complex of churches built one above the ruins of the earlier, over a period of 1100 years. It is said that Saint Paul taught Christianity on this site in 45 AD. Eric Egegod, King of Denmark died here unexpectedly on this way to the holy lands in 1103.
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A bit ashamed to say that we didn’t get to all the ruins in and around Paphos or even nearby sites – some you can see as you’re driving by, sometimes there’s a road right through the middle (outside Limassol) but after a while we started to recognise the mounds and it would start us wondering what lay beneath.
Pafos Waterfront and Harbour
The old fort stands at the forefront of the harbour. Built in the 13th century it had been destroyed and then rebuilt by the Ottomans. What is shown below is only a small section still standing. The harbour sweeps around in a semi-circle and is filled with local fishing boats and some more luxurious yachts. This was one of our favourite walks along the esplanade and into the harbour. Lots of restaurants are scattered around the harbour.
Aphrodite, the Godess of Love and Beauty
APHRODITE was the olympian goddess of Love, Beauty, Pleasure and Procreation. She was recognised as a beautiful woman often accompanied by the winged godling Eros (Love). Her attributes included a dove, apple, scallop shell and mirror. She has been connected to Cyprus as early as the 4th century BCE. These pictures of her statue were taken in the village of Latsi on the western side of the island.
Adonis Nature Trail
On this same day, we visited the Baths of Aphrodite and walked the Adonis Nature Trail. What we thought was a 3km walk turned into a hike of some 8kms plus, but the spectacular views distracted us. The hike to the top is a 7 out of 10 (difficult in a few places with lots of climbing) but the walk down is breathtakingly stunning. It took us a couple of days to relieve our leg muscles. As you can see we had spectacular weather too.
Aphrodite’s Birthplace
Another interesting attraction 25 minutes drive from Pafos is Aphrodite’s Rock. In the myth, the beautiful Goddess of Love emerges naked from these waters. She had just been created from the foam of the sea caused by Cronus castrating his father Uranus and throwing his genitals into the water. Don’t you just love Greek myth’s.
There are lots of some great hiking tracks close by. One we would especially recommend starts outside the Aphorite Hills Golf Resort and runs both ways along the coast with beautiful views along the coastline.
Tomb of the Kings, Pafos
The tomb of the kings is carved out of solid rock and dates back to the fourth century BC. It is thought to have been the burial site of Paphitic aristocrats and high officials up to the third century AD. Archaeological excavations are still being carried out at the site.
It is believed that the nobles and aristocrats were buried with valuables but over time these were stolen by grave robbers. We spent a couple of hours exploring this site and were overcome by the majesty and grandeur of some of these structures.
St Georgios Harbour
Most fine days we would explore a different part of the coastline not far from home base. A great hike starts at St Georgios Harbour and runs along the coast towards Pafos. It takes you past a new resort and down towards the sea caves. There are lots of very expensive villas to drool over and we wandered along past them figuring out which one we’d buy when we hopefully collected our winnings from the local lottery. This coast is quite rocky which adds to its uniqueness and beauty… wouldn’t mind that as a view to wake up to.
As we walked along the coast from St Georgios harbour we come across the white cliffs and Ares fingers pointing out to sea. Ares was the Greek God of courage and war. Plenty of sea caves to explore in this rocky coastline. This area is spectacular and well worth the hike. Great place to meditate or just watch the world go by.
Shipwrecks
And as we move further down the coast we came across a number of shipwrecks (well I did say the coast was rocky). But to see these vessels up close was a bit eery. The first was EDRO 111, registered in Serra Leone. This ship ran aground on 08 October 2011 in heavy seas carrying plasterboard. The crew, seven Albanians and two Egyptians were rescued and taken to safety. The local authority tried to refloat the vessel but they decided it was too dangerous and abandoned the effort.
The next wreck we discovered was the MV Demetrios. This vessel ran aground 23 March 1998 during a voyage from Cyprus to Syria with a cargo of timber. It had a crew of eight who were all airlifted safely off the vessel. Could you believe it, when Lloyd’s checked the qualifications for the Greek captain and the Pakistani first officer they were forgeries?
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